The California Files, Part 6: Hole Foods
Last night, the Peeled Team went to check out a showdown between Berkeley journalism professor Michael Pollan (he of The Omivore's Dilemma), and Whole Foods CEO John Mackey, who Pollan ferociously took to task in his New York Times Bestseller. The event took place at The University of Caifornia, Berkeley's 2,000 seat Zellerbach Hall, which usually hosts theater and dance and opera and the like. Last night, it hosted a power point presentation and some chit chat.
But rarely has chit-chat been SOOO entertaining. We were treated to about 2 hours worth of back and forth from two of the most influencial foodies of our time. Hmmm. There's an interesting notion. "Our Time" is one that has room enough for several foodies. No more rabid focus on Julia Childs or Alice Waters. Now the pot is thickened with a multitude of opinions about just how much food should be in food, how organic is organic, and what's the future of fish in the sea.
But the evening started out with a lecture on hunting and gathering. Huh? When Pollan gave up the stage to Mackey, Mr. CEO put before us a macro-history of eating. I suppose in some respect he was trying to frame the "big picture", but more than anything he was trying to gain a little sympathy. He had, after all, wandered into a room full of people who had read Pollan's partly-anti-Whole Foods book. And he was, after all, in Berkeley California, where hissing is an art form.
Sympathy he earned, through plain speaking, broad perspective, clear points, and a cheerfully intellectual take on all that we eat. Going in I certainly carried none of the anti-Mackey prejudices bared by most of the audience, but walking out I considered myself a Mackey-fan.
After the slide show, which also gave Mackey a chance to curry some favor thanks to his anouncement of a couple of bold initiatives for foodies and bleeding hearts, the two sat down for a tet-a-tet. Pollan asked some civil questions (and some politely uncivil ones), but it took a while for a real conversation to get going. They agree on a lot, like the dreadful state of the meat industry, and the disasterous consequences of over fishing. But agreements make for boring talk.
The battlezones were mostly about the consequences of big business organics, which Mackey believes can be done responsibly, but which Pollan assumes will quickly dilute the value of Organic. In an interesting concession, Pollan imagined what the world would be like if Coca-Cola when Organic (it'd be better. Only slightly. Mostly on corn farms. Corn farms still suck).
For us at Peeled Snacks, such an engagement is better than the Super Bowl or the Oscars or the Premier of Indiana Jones part IV. Here are two big thinkers bashing their heads together, chomping at each other, yet finding common ground, all in the public arena. Thanks so much to the new Peeled Snacks team member, Matt, for snagging us the tickets. He had a dentist's appointment, so he couldn't go. Boy did he get the lousy part of that deal.
Both speakers really took to task the American meat industry, and I walked out of there seriously considering a return to vegetarianism (which, for the record, almost killed my northern-european rooted self). Yet Mackey eloquently spoke to my reaction by saying that his consumers don't want to know all the terrible things there are to know about food- there are so few options for getting good, responsibly grown meat, yet dining without meat would really suck.
The biggest, most interesting battle, and the only one which actually elicited hisses from the audience, occured around the COST of organic and local food. Asked what Whole Foods can do for poor people with poor eating habits, Mackey tepidly offered that Americans are getting richer, and soon they'll all be able to buy all the organic, locally grown, nutrient rich, fair trade food that they want.
Boy did he look at the floor a lot when he was rolling out that spiel, and the Berkeley audience gave him a severe hissing for it. Let's face it- health food is a luxury right now. The cheapest thing to eat is corn syrup (thanks to government subsidies), which will keep you alive but will rot your brain. To assume that eventually the huge gap between wealthy and poor in America will just naturally close is akin to assuming that pigs will one day fly. Sure, it's possible, but it'll take a HECK of a lot of catapults.
Afterward the show we joined up with fellow foodie and friend Dana, the Queen of Goat Milk Ice Cream. She offered this interesting insight into John Mackey:
He's a Vegan.
The nation's most influential grocer, a man who impacts decisions that determine the fates of MILLIONS of animals per month, doesn't even eat cheese. I find that a scary, scary thought. Sure, he's right- the meat industry scares the be-jeezus out of me too... But I don't want to give it up. Sigh
Ian "Peeled Skinny" K
