Trans Fats Fans Spat...
Have you by chance heard the strange news that the New York Health Department is considering imposing a ban on trans fats? Read about it HERE, then continue reading... Don't worry, I'll wait for you. You done yet? No, no, take your time, I'm not going anywhere. Through yet? Okay then...
There's a lot of press about this right now, so if CNN's not your thing, google NYC trans fats and see what comes up. If you don't google, then I can't help you.
So the article barely covers trans fats, what they are, and what they do. Thanks to my girl Nina Planck, I got the skinny on all that, and it ain't pretty. It's a lurid tale of politics, commerce, and bad press, and it cuts to the core of crazy American industrialized agriculture. Consider for a moment the roughly 10,000 years of mostly-recorded human history... then consider that trans fats have been part of the human diet for about 1% of that time.
No Mesopotamian ever ate a trans fat, nor did any Ancient Roman. Trans fats arrived on the global dinner table somewhere in the 19th century, when chemists (not, mind you, chefs) found that animal fat could be solidified by simply bombarding it with hydrogen atoms (hydrogenating). Thanks to the sponsorship of Napolean III, someone in the 1870s figured out that the same process works on vegetable fats (which until then had only been liquid), and thus, courtesy of the FRENCH, margarine was born.
The history and politics behind this fat is fascinating without even bothering to ponder NYC's recent efforts to sully its reputation. As early as 1873, the US government heavily regulated margarine's sale, basically just to protect the US dairy farmers from some upstart French margarine onslought. By the 1880s, an expensive tax was put on every tub of margarine. And all this was instituted long before there was any evidence that trans fats cause heart disease.
When in the early 20th century the US department of agriculture started promoting margarine, it certainly wasn't for health reasons- it was to promote farms in the face of the slowly growing industrialized agriculture sector. This of course kicked into high gear around WWII, but the dairy industry in the US and abroad had some interesting ways to fight the fake fat front- they made sure that margarine stayed ugly!
Sounds weird, I know, but when vegetable oils are hydrogenated, they turn a pale white color typically associated with the skintones of certain zombies. It's unflattering, and clearly chemical. To assuage the flinching eyes of doubting consumers, margarine manufacturers started adding yellow dyes to make their goop look more like butter. But the dairy cabals all over the world fought to make such dyes illegal. They only became legal in Australia in 1980. In Quebec, they're STILL illegal, and accordingly, the Quebecoise eat a lot of butter.
Round about the 1980s, as industrialized agriculture in the US insured that, as an employer, agriculture accounted for less than 1% of the workforce (down from 50% in 1861) , the margarine boosters out there tried to ridea health kick and position of margarine as a HEALTHIER alternative to butter. I recall floods of commercials from back in those days as "I can't believe it's not butter" tried to demonize what it wasn't, and cholesteral was zoomed in as the future end of civilization lest something were done about it.
Flash forward to today, when the tables have been turned, and now margarine is being given treatment as cruel as cigarettes garnered in the late 90s. Health and food trends flow a buck, and us poor consumers find it ever more difficult to know what to eat, much less who to trust. But this legislation of diets seems rather extreme, whatever the health implications of eating margarine. More on this next week, because there's so much to cover...
Margarine, butter...
My biscuit needs moistening.
Better go with jam.
Hydrogenate me.
Bombard me with your atoms.
Soon, I'll nuke your heart.
Time was, health made sense.
Once men ate meat, and loved it.
Now, each bite is fear.
EN "Peel'en" K
